Photos

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Trekking the Himalayas

And...... we're back. For the past ten days Jay and I have been hiking throughout the Annapurna region of the Himalayas, northwest of the city of Pokhara. The blog map is now fully functional and I've charted our course through the mountain villages of scenic Nepal (for all the map junkies out there).
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The bus screeched to a stop in the village of Nayapul following a bus ride from the outskirts of Pokhara. Thankfully, we had managed to procure seats in the far back of the bus, saving us from a two hour game of duck and cover with the compartments overhead.

The strong sun was refreshing following two weeks of overcast fog. Passing roadside refreshment stalls we headed down our first of many dirt paths on our way to Birethanti, the starting point for the 10 day trek to base camp of Annapurna I. Having finally reached the countryside of Nepal, we laughed over the presence of candy wrappers that littered the ground. As the trek progressed we would see less of these eye sores, replaced by the heights of snow capped mountain ranges.

For three days we hiked through lowland forests and terraced cliff side farm land, stopping for water or a rest at the villages that appear every two hours along the route. As the sun lowered over the horizon each day we searched out a guesthouse for the night. Lodging costs are very cheap ($1/night), but its an unwritten requirement that all guests eat overpriced dinners and breakfasts at the guesthouse. Daily routines took form as the trek continued. Early wake ups and turn ins book ended six hour days of hiking, the morning air becoming crisper each day. Discounting a sick day we made good time on our way through the villages of Gorephani and Tadapani.

On day four Annapurna I and its neighboring behemoth, Gangapurna rose even higher. A strange phenomenon that I have never experienced, the longer we hiked into the mountain range, the larger the mountains seemed to loom.   Following days of occasionally glimpsing a mountain peak the range became our permanent backdrop. Altitude increased and thick vegetation gave way to stunted scrub and blue white glacial streams. During the day we sweated through our t shirts. At night the temperature quickly dropped. Guests wore down jackets and gloves at they hungrily gobbled down starchy dinners or poured over a book.

Our foresight in bringing spare food and snacks was offset by the mistake of not hitting the ATM before leaving town and we anxiously worried that our money wouldn't carry us throughout the journey. Asking the locals for an their nearest ATM location was useless. Buffalo are staunchly opposed to financial institutions.

On mid day of day seven we reached Annapurna base camp, altitude 4130m (13629 ft). White snowy peaks surrounded us as we craned our necks upward toward Annapurna I, towering ominously at over 8000m. Our legs ached as we posed for victory pictures, our new hippy friend from Colorado taking off his shirt in the freezing wind that blew across the glacier below us.

We stayed the night at Macchapucchre Base Camp, feasting on pizza, pasta and steaming hot mint tea as fog crept eerily up the valley to envelope our guesthouse. The next morning we barreled down the trail, conquering the thousands of stairs that run through Chomrong to reach the hot springs of Jhinu. Our final day of the trek was spent lumbering through the idyllic countryside buffering the river. Our legs ached as we boarded the local bus back to Pokhara, this time with beers in hand. 

Saturday, November 19, 2011

14 days in Pokhara

We originally assumed we would be in the small lakeside town of Pokhara for around 3 days before going trekking however this was not to be the case. A string of various incidents involving chris's debit card not working, my being locked out of my own bank account despite having told them before leaving the US that i would be traveling, and finally the loss of my passport have forced us to remain here for two weeks. After around a week or so the financial issues were all worked out and we were preparing to leave when my passport and i were permanently separated on a local bus forcing me to go through a long process. I filed a police report and took the long ride back to Kathmandu to put in the papers for a new one at the US embassy and then again returned to Pokhara. I am definitely ready to get out of here. We have spent too much time walking up and down main street while continually hearing "yes please" left and right from local shop owners gesturing towards useless obscure items such as Tibetan singing bowls, wooden flutes, or questionable Pashmina fabrics. Despite the overwhelming psychological power of this sales tactic we somehow managed to abstain. The highlight of the two weeks was probably getting a haircut and having getting my terrorist-caveman beard shaved off. Nice to look like a human being again although i will miss the heightened problem solving abilities that result from contemplative mustache twirling.

We will be getting on a bus out of Pokhara tomorrow morning to begin the two week Annapurna Sanctuary trek after which we will be returning to Kathmandu to get my new passport/visa and heading south. Sometime around the beginning of December we should be leaving Nepal for warm climates, spicy curries, and seafood in India. A lot has happened and been learned here, but I have stayed a little longer than anticipated and its about time to move on.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Patan To Pokhara

We stayed in Patan. It is the old part of Kathmandu - originally its own city, now a part of the metro. The architecture there is incredible. Building facades covered in ornate wood carvings. Elvin doors lead to hidden courtyards surrounding individual shrines. Hindu influenced Buddhist temples dot street corners and intersections, with animistic iconography carved alongside the enlightened being. Meeting up with Jay was excellent, as I was feeling very out of sorts. Its much easier to cope when you are not alone.

Explored the area on day one. Ate traditional Nepali food; bakery goods, momos, then Newari food for dinner. The Newari consists of curried meats, primarily buffalo. The restaurant was empty when we walked in and the meats unrefrigerated. I was hesitant because of these reasons. We drank Chang, alcohol fermented from millet. Milk
white in color, it tasted like acidic watered soy milk. My stomach churned.

Walked back home past teenage Nepalis out for their night. The city closes down completely at 10pm but its lively until then. Ate delicious ice cream (very popular in Kathmandu). Passed old by men in a dimly lit rooms drinking masala tea.

Tightness in my stomach wakes me up throughout the night. Buffalo taste stuck in my mouth. The next day was not good.

The morning shower cannot break my daze. We walked down the streets looking for breakfast and I drag my feet like a zombie. The sights are too bright. Everything feels disorienting and alien. Smells are overwhelmingly strong. I feel empathy for pregnant women and go to lay down.

Lazed around all day watching Breaking Bad on our computer. At night we headed to a restaurant and ordered anything other than Nepali. I ate chop suey and Jay, Indian Masala. On the streets I breathed through my nose
to avoid the smell of buffalo.

The next day is better. Having exhausted Patan we taxi to Bodinoth, an apparent oasis of calm withing the city. Buddhist monks circle a gigantic golden stupda. Prayer flags rise to the stupa pinnacle. Gift shops encircle the stupa. Tourists raise their camera in all directions. It is not peaceful. Lonely Planet has failed us. We take a cab to the shared taxi station.

Traffic is very bad in Kathmandu, pollution is worse. We sit in the cab for 40 minutes. People burn trash along the road. My eyes water. Jay seems used to it by now. Many people cover their nose and mouth when walking around the streets.The cab approached the shared bus station. It looked like a market with many touts. Fifteen passenger vans troll the market periphery and hype men yell out the vehicles destination.

Our cab stopped and the hype men began banging at the windows. They yell "WHERE YOU GO?" A man pulled my bag away from me and told me to get in his van. I pull my bag away from him and tell him to get lost. Drivers crowd around to bargain.

How Much? I ask
------500 they call out
I laugh - 300
They collectively scoff
350 a voice offers.
Jay and I agree.

We pile into the last remaining seats in the van, bags in lap. The rise is bumpy. We ride through the Kathmandu Valley and the air becomes clearer, the views better. It rains outside and the pollutionof Kathmandu is replaced with the earthy smell of the country.

I put my headphones on and listen to the Grateful Dead and Kanye West, ruminating on the line
"Im living in the future so the present is my past". Either Ye is experiencing the thrill of living some futuristic existence or the struggle of staying in the present moment.

We wind down tight turns on the slippery dirt roads. Two cars have collided head on. People gather around but our driver doesnt blink as we roll through another muddy switchback. The rain pours down and brings a feeling of clean and refreshment, so much different than the dusty city. My head feels much better at this point.

The passenger van arrives in Pokhara after dark. We don our rain jackets and jump out of the van and into a cab. The driver crawls into the darkness and down to the lakefront of Pokhara.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Arrival at the Gates of Hell

To say that arrival in Delhi was a shock would be an understatement. As I exited the airport the air smelt slightly smokey, reminiscent of burning plastic with a distinct rubber finish. Thick heavy smog hung over the parking lot lights. I got a cab and headed for Paraganj, the backpackers ghetto of Delhi. Taxis and motorbikes coast down the road without acknowledgement of traffic lanes, lazily changing lanes on a whim. The pace was unhurried, drivers seeming resigned to move slowly but steadily in a city where traffic is ever present. Honking seems to be regarded as a courtesy used to warn others of their intention to pass or merge. Many vehicles have “Please Honk” painted on their rear bumper.
    Delhi is not what we would call a “vacation destination”.  In my case, its a destination of necessity. Incoming flights are cheap and the location is in close proximity to Nepal, where Jay and I will be trekking in the coming days. Deep puddles pockmark the dirt roads that cut through narrow lanes of dilapidated storefronts. Many buildings are missing their facade entirely. Mangy stray dogs line the streets, rising to their feet to dodge oncoming taxis and rickshaws. A thick film of filth covers everything. Touts harass with offers of guesthouses, tours and taxis. And why is there so much poo on the streets? Needless to say, the place is a hell hole.
I woke up extra early (due to the time difference) and sat on the street drinking chai tea and talking with the vendor. Before the frenzy of the day began the street was filled with people going about their everyday business. Children in uniforms headed off to school. The boys wear these excellent cauliflower blue pants that crack me up. Shop owners open their doors before gathering around to chew betel leaf, a mild stimulant with bright red juice.
I walked the city almost all day just scoping it out. Confirming that it would be best to get out of
Delhi as soon as possible. I headed to the ATM to take out some cash to discover that Indian ATMs did not recognize my card. After many worried hours at the computer Mike was able to patch through some info that activated an ATM card I was carrying for Jay, saving me from sleeping in the Delhi train station. I booked a 42 hour bus ride to Kathmandu and slept through the night.

Monday, November 7, 2011

On and off the tourist trail

Much has happened since my last post. The mountain climb never happened as there were no boots that the company promised would be brought by the porter and no rental shop in all the Everest area had size 13 boots. I was surprisingly given a refund on my return to the office in kathmandu, so it wasn't much of a problem. I got out of the tourist area of Thamel as quickly as possible and vowed to avoid tourist areas at all costs. Tourist areas are halfway houses of overpriced mediocrity where people have flown 14 hours to the other side of the world to eat practically pizza and sometimes spaghetti. Who spends 1200 dollars for a round trip flight to experience some foreign interpretation of the very environment which you spent so much time and money to escape from? Most people it seems... they stay around all the other tourists thinking it is the safe choice to stay in a familiar habitat even though this happens to be where all of the shifty mcgriffs preying on tourists and aggressive touts gather to find creative ways of parting you from your money. It is also where the majority of beggars will be found.
Escaping the sushi and wifi I found solace in Patan where the architecture is hundreds of years old and pretty good meals can be eaten at street stalls for around a dollar. I spent a few days taking in the scene at other-worldy Durbar Square sitting on the temple steps reading the paper every morning with a cup of Masala Tea and a coconut roll. I even made some friends who lived in the area. Rahul who is a college student in Nepal took me out for dinner where we had a spread of different types of Newari food washed down with Chang, a local rice beer, and even insisted on paying - what a nice guy!
The contrast in what one experiences on and off the tourist trail is unbelievable. Two people staying less than a mile away will go home with descriptions of drastically different countries. If you want to get drunk, eat pizza, and go shopping for goods from another culture, you could accomplish this without even leaving your couch.
On another note chris frinally arrived after taking the nightmarish overland journey from delhi to Kathmandu. I cant say i didn't amuse myself with thoughts of his experience in Delhi and the bus trip having gone through the miserable experience myself. It is so outrageously awful you can't help but laugh about it. We since have left Patan spontaneously and are now in the cleaner lakeside town of Pokhara (on the tourist trail again) and are leaving soon to the mountains for a couple weeks to trek to Annapurna Base Camp once he gets over his fever induced by the feast of buffalo meat we had in Patan. Newari food is various parts of the buffalo served with beaten rice (practically woodchips). I found it pretty delicious, but his stomach may not have been ready as he has been here barely a week and probably not adjusted to all the foreign substances in the food. Photos coming very shortly.